So I am finally getting around to doing this damn tutorial! A lot of people have done tutorials on Worbla, but they fail to mention that it’s not as easy as they make it seem. I am not saying that it isn’t worth using, but it does take a couple tries to get use to it. Another thing to remember is that it is expensive so make sure you only need a couple tries to get it right. Otherwise, you are wasting big bucks…
Before jumping right in, make sure you have the following:
- Worbla- It’ll cost you $88 for the “jumbo” roll, which is about 39″x 59″. The more you buy, the more the cost goes down. You can have it shipped to you, or if you are lucky, there is a place near your home. Click HERE to find a store near you or to order.
- Heat Gun- I have found that this one works pretty well. It has 2 speeds and will only cost you $22 at Home Depot. You can probably find it cheaper on Amazon, but if you need one immediately, that’s not too bad of a price. If there is a Harbor Freight near you, go there first. They are cheap and they ROCK!
- Scissors, EXACTO Knife, and Marker- I also recommend a piece of paper. the reason for this is because it helps to know how much Worbla you will need. I found that an 11″ by 11″ sheet of paper worked for one breast. Once you have the right size, mark it on the Worbla and cut it out with the scissors. The EXACTO knife will be used later once you have made your piece.
- Foam Ball- This is used to get the perfect shape for the breast. This part can be a tad tricky. You can eyeball it and just by what you think the right size is. or you can be a little odd and bring a bra with you. Find what foam ball fits and there you go. Now, I did not go to the fabric store with a bra, but it’s up to you. There are also clear plastic balls you can use, but either will do.
- Wood Glue (if you choose to use the foam ball)
- Petroleum Jelly (aka Vaseline)-
If you chose to use a foam ball, you first need to cut it in half. If you mess up, no worries. Technically, you only need one side. Once you have cut the foam ball in half, cover it in wood glue. This may not be necessary, but I wasn’t sure if the heated Worbla would melt the foam. Rather than take the chance, I took a few extra minutes and covered that baby up! This also ensures that there aren’t any rough spots on the foam ball that could potentially tear the Worbla. Once it dries, it’ll look like this:
While the glue is drying, measure and cut the Worbla to the desired size. I recommend making it just a tad larger. Although Worbla stretches, it will get a little holy if you stretch it too much. THIS is the part they don’t talk about…
Now that the glue is dry, move your cut pieces of Worbla and your foam ball over to a surface you are ok to work on. I say this because if you have new wood floors, you don’t want to burn a hole in it. Also, and this might be obvious, don’t do this on carpet! Parents, landlords, significant others will be pissed!
Before you start heating the Worbla, you MUST first put a layer of petroleum jelly onto the foam ball. This ensures that the Worbla does not stick to the ball and makes it much easier to remove the finished product. Now, heating up the Worbla is easy. Now having said that, don’t leave the heat gun in the same spot for too long. you don’t want to overheat it. As you heat the Worbla, you will start to notice a change in color and a slight sheen to it. That means it is getting to the right consistency you need. Turn off your heat gun and make sure you DON’T put the metal part on something that will burn or melt. Remember my warning about the carpet?
Place the heated Worbla onto the foam ball, making sure the center of the Worbla is laying at the top-most part of the ball. BE CAREFUL! The Worbla can be very hot. Also, the Worbla will shift due to the petroleum jelly. Other things they don’t tell you in other tutorials. Slowly start to mold the Worbla onto the ball. If it starts to harden, don’t worry. You can always re-heat.
Now, the tough part begins when you get to the bottom of the ball. You will start to notice some puckering and overlapping. It is something you can’t help from occurring. Do not fret though. Worbla is forgiving when warm, so you can just press the overlapping together and it will flatten out. LET IT COOL!!! Even when you think it’s cooled completely, wait a bit longer.
Once they are completely cooled, use the EXACTO knife to remove the extra Worbla. There will be a bit of it and it can be re-used. Remove the dried Worbla from the foam ball and check for tears.*** If you see any holes, that’s ok. Take a piece of the discarded Worbla, heat it up, and mold it onto the inside of the cup with your hands. You are going to paint this eventually, so it doesn’t matter if you see patches when light hits it.
***If you are scared this will occur, double up. I mean, use two pieces of Worbla on each breast cup.
Here is what it looks like on the inside. You can see some of my patchwork.
Stay tuned. I will be adding more to this. And remember, stay calm. this will frustrate the SHIT out of you at first, but after 10 minutes or so, you’ll be a pro! Oh yeah- don’t forget to share your pics with me. I love to see what you all do.
Good luck and cheers!
The Fatal Siren